Monday, October 19, 2009

Bon Appetite

For years I was very wary of kitchens. My mother was a perfectionist and her kitchen was almost completely off limits to little hands making large messes. My step-mother badly needed a distraction for my father's high energy while she tried to prepare dinner. Together we stayed out of her way, intensely bent over the backgammon board for at least two pre-dinner bourbon on the rocks. In Kenya our cook Paul was intent on keeping "his" kitchen to himself. The only time I was actually welcome was after agreeing to teach him how to make popcorn with a bit of oil in a pot over the stove.

I have always loved to eat, and so I would cook (order out more than cook to be completely honest, but occasionally cook as well). But only recently have I discovered that the kitchen is first and foremost a place of creativity. Now I can't stop cooking. It goes without saying that I can't stop eating either. I'm like Julia Child's character in Julie & Julia, diving into whatever dish I've just made, each bite resulting in more enthusiasm than the last. Although I wasn't a huge fan of the movie (I was disappointed with Julie's character - she didn't seem to really enjoy the fruits of her labor) it has changed my life. Julia Child was so right on the money (and money she did make) when she decided butter is the secret to culinary bliss. I have never so completely agreed with someone on any matter. Unfortunately, besides making everything better, butter also makes something else bigger. So, my new found love affair also means a new membership at the "Y".

I recently made these dishes and they were absolutely scrumptious compliments to each other. Each recipe encompasses all that is wonderful about food and autumn to me. Sweaters and blankets, crisp, cool evenings, lazy Sunday afternoons (is that football I hear in the background?), and yummy, yummy eats. Thank you W.T. Harris for borrowing $1,500 in 1936 to open the very first Harris Teeter in my lovely adopted hometown of Charlotte, NC and for this delicious spaghetti squash recipe 73 years later (I snagged it from a recipe suggestion card in the produce section!). And thank you Chef Donald Bariskman of Charleston's Magnolias for years of birthdays and brunches, and this heavenly version of whipped potatoes.


Spaghetti Squash Au Gratin

1 (2-lb.) spaghetti squash, cut, seeded and steamed

1 tbsp. olive oil

1 medium onion, chopped

2 tbsp. chopped fresh basil

1/4 tsp. ground pepper

1 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese

pinch of salt

Heat oil in nonstick skillet over medium heat. Cook onion until soft, about 6 minutes. Remove from heat.

Scrape cooked strands from the squash into large bowl. Fluff with fork. Preheat broiler.

Add onions, basil, salt and pepper to squash strands. Toss well. Place mixture in a 1-quart oven-proof baking dish coated with cooking spray. Sprinkle with Parmesan cheese. Broil 4 inches from heat for 2 minutes.

serves 6


Butter-Whipped Potatoes

6 cups large roughly cut peeled russet or boiling potatoes (I used red, and left the skin on)

6 cups cold water

2 tbsp. plus 1 tsp. fine sea salt

1 cup heavy cream

1/2 cup half-and-half

6 tbsp. butter

white pepper

Put the potatoes, water, and 2 tbsp. salt in a saucepan and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Lower the heat to a simmer and cook for 18 to 20 minutes, or until the potatoes are tender when pierced with a fork.

Place the cream, half-and-half, and butter in a small saucepan and heat until the butter has melted. Reserve warm.

Drain the liquid off the potatoes and return the pan to the burner. Steam dry the potatoes, stirring constantly. Remove from the heat and put the potatoes through a food mill with a fine screen or a potato ricer.

Carefully blend the warm cream mixture into the potatoes. Season with the remaining salt and white pepper to taste. Using a whisk or a mixer with a whisk attachment, whip up the potatoes.

Makes 5 cups

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